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Tasting Notes
January/February, 2006

Tasting Notes Contents Page

QPR Winner   I give this award to wines that demonstrate an excellent Quality to Price Ratio. They are sometimes more expensive than the wines featured in my Best Buys section (which is cut off at $20), so while every Best Buy is also a QPR Winner,  not every QPR winner is an official Best Buy.  QPR winners are simply wines that are great values for a relatively  reasonable price. 

Alsace Australia  Bordeaux  Bulgaria  Burgundy  Calif./USA 
Dessert/Sparkling Germany  Italy  Loire  Rhone/S/SW France  Spain

Alsace (except dessert/sparkling)
2002 Riesling "Clos St. Urbain--Rangen" (Zind-Humbrecht)
Very ripe and rather rich, this is still quite focused, with a bright, spicy demeanor around the edges, and perhaps a touch of tannin. It is off dry on the end, but this is not a lush or unctuous wine, and is precise, cool and refreshing.   I loved the touch of apricot, and the way the wine took over the palate. Some will find it too ripe, but I don't want to leave you with the wrong impression. It certainly depends on what you are looking for, but this is not a big, lush wine, just ripe. I think its balance is superb. 94 points.

1996 Pinot Gris "Clos Windsbuhl" (Zind-Humbrecht)
Sweet and elegant, with verve and good balancing acidity, this is drinking very well now.   Although the fruit has thinned a bit, the finish here is impressive and long, gripping and penetrating. It is a beautiful presentation.  92 points.

1986 Gewurztraminer "Herrenweg" (Zind-Humbrecht)
The good news is that this still survives---entry level gewurz is not your best bet at this age. It has characteristic gewurz aromas and drinks fairly well initially, although it is rather thin, and the flavors are fading.  The sugar has also faded, and the varietal bitterness takes over this wine as it receives more air.  It is pleasing to see this survive, but it has seen its best days long ago. It needs to be drunk, and if opened, don't plan on it holding well for a two or three hour meal. 84 points.

1991 Gewurztraminer "Clos Windsbuhl" (Zind-Humbrecht)
Others liked this more than I. This is weighty and still deep, but it has dried out considerably, in terms of sugar, certainly, and also some fruit in decline in my view. There are those hints of varietal bitterness one gets on the edges of gewurz that has no sweetness and too much age.   It is still alive and worthy, but past peak in my view.  88 points.

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Australia (except dessert/sparkling)
2003 Syrah "Hickinbotham" (Clarendon Hills)
This is impressive. I've had a stereotype--well deserved in many instances--of Clarendon as a winery that delivers weird wine, with odd flavors. This shows a lot of restraint. It is carefully named Syrah and not Shiraz, and indeed it seems to nod to the Northern Rhone. The oak treatment is rather restrained, and the wine is tight and focused, with its core of fruit supported by a firm backbone. This was hard and tannic on opening, but it resolved fairly well, even if it did not fully open. 94 points.

2004 Shiraz/Viognier (Mr. Riggs) QPR Winner 
About the only complaint you could make here is that this young wine seems a little too friendly and more or less ready to drink.  There are blueberries up front, and the wine has exuberant young fruit, and touch of alcohol, yet at the same time there is a certain restraint. This is fruit forward and intended to be, easy drinking and flavorful, but it is not drenched in oak, nor unwieldy. With more air, the varietal character shows through more, too.  For its $20 price range, it is rather appealing, and a solid buy. I would drink now to 2009. Anything after that is gravy. 88 points.
 

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Bordeaux (except dessert/sparkling)
1990 Chateau L'Evangile
This shows remarkable depth, a certain voluptuousness that is impressive at its age. It just seems weighty and dense. In truth, this wine always has seemed that way. In its youth, it seemed packed tight, but also shut down pretty hard in the flavor that department. That, at least, is no longer the case. Although this had a several hours of double decanting, it seems fully open, showing sweet fruit, with some refreshing brightness on the finish. Rich and delicious, pure sex appeal.  From magnum. 97 points.

1945 Chateau La Mission Haut Brion (Nicolas bottling)
Served from magnum, this was a wine I really wanted to like, but really couldn't.  Instead, it mostly demonstrated to me anew the flaws with holding wines too long, even great ones. The bottle was impeccable. There is no reason to believe it was off. It is just losing fruit, and somewhat dominated by tannins. It opens with nuances of game and tarry notes. It is smooth and very bright. The stinky nose detracts from the wine a bit. The best feature is at the end, the rather gripping finish, propelled by tannins and acid. The tannins are somewhat mouth drying and are clearly outliving the fruit. The mid-palate has thinned, and the flavors have dimmed.  The texture is dominated by the acidity, with little fruit to soak it up. There are still things to like with this, but it is hard to get excited about a performance like this in a bottle that costs a couple of times four digits unless you are really an old wine fancier. 86 points.

1989 Chateau Montrose
I will maintain that the '90 is a couple of notches better. I like its texture better, its depth, its extra layer or two. The '90 has more of a backbone than is apparent at first, too, and is rather backward. But this is hardly chopped liver and provides a magnificent one-two punch for this Chateau.  This was double decanted for several hours. It shows leather and game, supple tannins and cassis on the back end, at first. It developed beautifully in the glass despite the long decanting. There's an expected touch of barnyard, but not much. Its gripping finish is underscored by the tannins and acidity. Powerful, beautiful, and capable of developing brilliantly in the glass despite decanting, this is a marvel in its own right.  97 points.

1990 Chateau Tertre Roteboeuf
I loved the beautiful texture on this, but the rest was pretty much downhill. Now, it did get several hours of double decanting, and perhaps didn't need it. It was soft and gentle--a bit too much so. The depth was not bad, but the wine just seemed a bit prematurely aged, something that was older than it was. I know its storage was perfect. Beyond that, I can only say this was too far along, and bears  little resemblance to the monster I tasted young. It smells even older than it tastes. 88 points.

1989 Chateau Clinet
I don't like to keep reposting on wines I had just a few months back, but this was exceptional and got several hours of double decanting this time, so why not....    My last rating was 98+ points, noting the tightness of the wine. This one, with everything in place...well, what can I say? It is just remarkable on every score, rich, with fabulous mid-palate depth, gloriously sweet fruit, and complexity, too, nuanced by touches of herbs.  It has structure, too, with remarkable grip and power on the finish. The wine is just penetrating and persistent, lingering and delicious. It's a sexpot in a sense, but it has power to spare, and preens vainly. It pretty much has it all. 100 points.

1990 Chateau La Conseillante
Sweet fruit mingles with tar and leather, and there is a touch of game, too. This got a fair bit of decanting, and likely would have been better without it.  It seemed a bit thin, a bit lacking in the mid-palate, at least considering the competition. That said, the flavors were lovely and persistent, and the wine had a graceful, wide open demeanor that was very pleasing.  From this well stored bottle, at least, it seemed mature. 91 points.

1995 Chateau Pichon Baron
This is at once just what you want in this wine, and on the other hand, perhaps just a touch foursquare. It is bright and supple, and rounding into form nicely. There are touches of cassis and tertiary notes, but it mostly shows fairly young. Supple and earthy, with perky, flavorful fruit in the middle, it is a wine that is a lot of fun to drink, but seems a brick shy of anything distinguished. It seems to be evolving fairly quickly and can be drunk now. 89 points.

1990 Chateau Haut Marbuzet
This fruity, friendly puppy, not expected to age well, no longer shows like a fruity, friendly puppy, but it has enough left to be better after thirty minutes of air. It opened with a heavy whiff of oxidation and forest floor, but I was pleased to see that it came together well, its fruit became more lively, the oxidative notes became mere background as the wine shook off its bottle slumber. It is fully mature with tertiary nuances many will like a lot. There is nothing left of the primary fruit. For an inexpensive cru bourgeois in a softer style, this has held gracefully and will be what a lot of people want in mature Bordeaux. 88 points.

1990 Chateau Pape Clément
Fully mature, this is still the delicious wine it has always been, and it has more character now, to boot. The texture is soft and seductive, while the fruit retains its flavors. There are tertiary notes around the edges.  Sexy and seductive. Another bottle of this I had a couple of weeks later was far fuller and lusher, and I would've rated it two to three points higher. 90 points.

2003 Chateau L'Angelus
This rendition of L'Angelus seems elegant and rather restrained, not showing much depth or finish at this point. The texture has a beautiful velvety feel, and the tannins on the finish are assertive. This is a bit dumb at this point, and needs some air or time. Some of this score is merely on faith and experience. 90-92 points.

2003 Chateau Beau-Séjour Bécot
Full in the mouth, this is bursting with flavor and shows excellent grip and structure as well. There is persistent flavor on the finish that is a pleasure to taste. The tannins are ripe, and this has a succulent feel to it. I'm not sure this will be the best ager, but for mid-term drinking it is a lot of fun. I think that over the next 10-12 years, this will be a big crowd pleaser. 91-93 points.

2003 Chateau Canon
This is a bit dumb at the moment, projecting weight and fullness in the mouth, but not much flavor. It seems mute. It also seems a touch short. I do think this has some promise and upside, but it needs to open and develop with cellaring. 88-90 points.

2003 Chateau Canon-La-Gaffelière
Cool and refreshing, this is forward, with supple tannins on the end, and delicious fruit. There is lots of flavor and it seems rather open and tasty now. As with many of the '03 right bankers here, although there are some exceptions, I'm not sure how well they will repay long cellaring, but the ripe fruit makes them tasty and succulent and delicious for mid-term drinking. This is hardly the roasted, overripe wine of caricature. Try actually tasting it, without preconceptions. It is bright and lively. 90-92 points.

2003 Chateau Clos Fourtet
This St. Emilion starts with an exuberant nose. It is remarkably aromatic. The color is moderate, and the fruit is laced with strawberry notes. The wine is tight now, with some astringency on the finish. It needs time, but is well constructed, although I might wish for a little more lushness. The tannic backbone bodes well for future development. 90-92 points.

2003 Chateau Figeac
The nose projects a touch of game or barnyard. This seems a bit shy in the mid-palate, but it is flavorful and focused, meaty and distinctive. There are appropriate tannins on the finish, and this needs some time to knit together. 88-90 points.

2003 Chateau La Dominique
There's a bit of barnyard on the nose. The wine is medium bodied at best, and the assertive finish seems rather overwhelming now for its average mid-palate. I liked this Chateau often as one of the very best right bank values. This year it is very nice but not exceptional and the mid-palate is a bit lacking. 87-89 points.

2003 Chateau Troplong-Mondot
Decadent in the nose, as is common with this wine, this projects kirsch and raspberry perfume. It is very exotic aromatically. The palate is very grapey and fruity now, with raspberry notes following through. It seems very sweet and exotic. Experience dictates that with cellaring and air it will show more typicity, although it will always be a bit on the flamboyant side. More troublesome is the relatively modest weight this wine displays at the moment. Hopefully, it will flesh out in the cellar. 89-91 points.

2003 Chateau La Conseillante
Sweet and utterly delicious, this charming wine provides mouth-coating fruit, ripe tannins and a feeling of succulence. It grabs your attention and your palate. It seems fresh and refreshing at the same time. It is not particularly deep or powerful, but there are supple tannins that give it some verve. Focused and delicious. Here's another right banker I am liking a lot at the moment, but I don't know how well it will age.  Drink young-ish. Enjoy. 90-92 points.

2003 Chateau Petit Village
Nice cherry-nuanced fruit provides some nice flavor, but this wine seems a bit short and lacking in the mid-palate. There are modest tannins on the end, but this does seem on the lighter side, and destined for early maturity.  86-88 points.

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Bulgaria (except dessert/sparkling)
2004 Cabernet Sauvigon (Vini-Boyar Estates) QPR Winner 
I reviewed these wines some time ago, and thought they had promise in other vintages, but here they really seem to perform well. This is from the Thracian Valley in Bulgaria, which is no doubt unfamiliar to most wine people. Let me start by saying that this is only $8. What do you get for $8 thsese days? Not much. Here, you get a nice, solid Cab that has an impression of fullness in the mouth. It has typical Cab flavors, although related to expansive, broad nuances, rather than sharper notes. It seems rich and ripe, and tastes great. Refrigerated overnight, it performs well the next day, showing a little more acidity, and still tasty fruit, though not quite as succulent. This is not a fruit bomb, though. It is fruit forward, but it is well crafted, friendly and rather elegant, while still giving the impression of fullness in the mouth. The oak treatment is moderate, allowing it to express fruit, but not adulteration in flavor. It does seem a bit formless at times. There is no tannic backbone to speak of, and the acidity is relatively low. Still, this is a lot of fun for $8. It is pretty tasty. I would score it higher if I thought it would age and develop. For the short term, it is a fine value. Imported by Bulgarian Master Vintners of Sonoma.  86 points.

2004 Merlot (Vini-Boyar Estates) QPR Winner 
This Merlot is also from the Thracian Valley in Bulgaria and it is also a fine bargain at $8. It is not as flavorful and as expansive as the Cabernet, but it is nicely wrought, and has no resemblance to a sloppy, lush New World Merlot. It could fool you into thinking "basic St. Emilion." As with the Cabernet, there is modest structure here, but the wine tastes great and evolves nicely over the short term. 85 points. 

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Burgundy (except dessert/sparkling)
2002 Gevrey-Chambertin (Faiveley)
Pleasant, if rather thin, this has some acid and tannins in the back. The structure is more interesting than the fruit, and I think the wine is a touch unbalanced, although it has its moments. 85 points.

2002 Clos Vougeot (Jadot)
Sweet and succulent, this has a lovely raspberry nose, good focus and nice depth.  Tannins on the finish provide some needed structure, and there is some brightness around the edges, too.  The round, seductive texture caresses the palate. Very nice. 92 points.

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California/USA (except dessert/sparkling)
2003 Chardonnay (Kongsgaard)
Fresh and inviting, this shows nice depth, fine length, and starts with a rather pungent nose. The fruit shines through the lees and reasonable oak treatment, and there is a nice, intensity to the finish.  I think this is a pretty good cellar candidate, and should improve and become more harmonious in a couple of years. 92+ points.

2002 Chardonnay "Ritchie Vineyard" (Aubert)
From magnum. Beautifully integrated, this is focused, elegant and graceful.  Its parts are wound together harmoniously in a tight core of refreshing fruit, nuanced by lees and light touches of oak.  This is a pleasure to drink, and seems to be drinking quite nicely now. Precise and flavorful. 92 points.

2002 Chardonnay "Point Rouge" (Peter Michael)
From magnum. Sweet and buttery, round and sexy, this is the polar opposite of the Aubert, above, and even seems a bit eccentric because the fruit is so sweet, the texture so round. It is a sexpot of a Chardonnay that may not answer everyone's desire for Chardonnay, but the flavor intensity is simply glorious and it is hard to begrudge it its occasional liberties. 95 points.

2000 Pinot Noir "Garys' Vineyard" (Siduri)
This is holding nicely, and is well done in the vintage. It is drinking well and this is a good time to drink it.  The wine has a bit of tomato on it, a broad note that is far different than higher acid wines. I liked its evolution in the glass, and with some air, it showed some supple tannins and a touch of brightness to provide some needed liveliness. It is round, with fine mid-palate depth. Very nice. 89 points.

1999 Cabernet Sauvignon "Napa" (Tom Eddy)
From magnum. This shows a touch of oak up front, and then resolves into a suave wine, with lively tannins, and fine balance. It is medium bodied, no more, with limited intensity and depth, but nice flavors, and an elegant presentation.  Not a great wine, but a very pleasing one. 89 points.

1997 Syrah (Glen Fiona)
A beautifully constructed and balanced wine, this opens with a touch of oak which integrates well. There is some sweet fruit, still, in the mid-palate. Everything is in place here, giving this wine an elegant, well crafted, very suave feel. It has matured gracefully, and seems fully ready, but it also drank well on Day #2.  Some will call this a "food wine," a phrase that I often find is translated as "forgettable and underwhelming," but this manages the good things without disappearing. 90 points.

1998 Pinot Noir (Beaux Freres)
Impeccably balanced, this is drinking beautifully now. It has lovely flavors, pinot typicity, and a harmonious feel. Some lively, bright notes around the edges perk it up and provide a counterpoint to the soft, expansive mid-palate. Beautifully presented, and well integrated, it is a pleasure to drink and seems to be drinking just fine now.  From this bottle, the only I've had for awhile, I'd say that this is at peak. 92 points.

2000 Cabernet Sauvignon "Sycamore" (Freemark Abbey)
Fully ready to drink, this is a very charming wine that will win lots of friends--but for its $60-ish list price. The good news is that this came into my area for under $20, which made it a nice buy. In this vintage, making a wine with charm and balance that would mature early was one of the achievable goals. Depth, ageworthiness and long finishes, were generally not. In that context, this succeeds very well. It has a touch of mint at the opening, and then proceeds into a soft, gentle, fruity demeanor, where everything seems elegant, nicely balanced and perfectly enjoyable. There is nothing profound about this wine, and it lacks some depth and intensity, but it has a certain roundness, nice flavors and is simply a friendly puppy that is hard to dislike.  Drinking perfectly now, it shows relatively unstructured with little tannin. Three years hence may not get you the same results.  It loses point for lack of ageworthiness, but still...  88 points.

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Dessert/Sparkling
1990 Champagne (Krug)
This is pure power, showing strong oxidative notes, and persistent acidity. There's an awful lot of fruit there to soak that up, though, as this wine is burly and deep, despite being fifteen years old. It demands your attention from start to the gripping finish.  95 points.

1970 Port (Fonseca)
An old favorite, this is showing beautifully, becoming gentler with time, and utterly charming. The fruit has a certain chocolately note to it, and it is still sweet and delicious. It does show some tertiary notes at this point, and is no longer the grapey, very sweet fruit bomb it once was. The sweetness is more around the edges now. The tannins have moderated, but are still there and this is not a wine that is dying on the vine, but rather shows balance and harmony. It is drinking pretty well now, and I like how it shows.  The finish is the best part, lingering and delicious. I always liked this wine a lot, but today I find its charm its overtaking its youthful exuberance. Both incarnations are quite nice. 95 points.

2001 Sauternes (La Clotte-Cazalis)
This is priced around $40, and is a producer with which I am not terribly familiar. This is a very nice performance, however. It opens with vanilla, rather typical, laced with some creme caramel notes.  It is on the lighter side, but lively and bright, suave and tasty.  This lacks the depth and power of a big time Sauternes, but it has a certain charm and flavor profile that is very appealing. 89 points.

2004 Riesling Eiswein "Hallgartener Jungfer" (Spreitzer)
Spreitzer, for some reason, I think of as almost a twin of Leitz. They are two estates with owners who are friendly, and whose wines represent the Rheingau well, while not quite being as famous as either the old guard, or the big gun Mosel competitors.  This has a gloriously pungent nose. The fruit is fresh and its purity seems so pristine, so perfect that it is as perfect fruit were crushed in front of your eyes. It is also remarkably sweet and flavorful. Simply delicious. This won't be cheap--maybe running around $100 per half.  92-94 points. 

2004 Riesling Cluster Select Late Harvest (Navarro)
Bright and lovely, this latest vintage of one of America's great dessert wines is nuanced by apricot notes. But the beauty here is its bright, delicate, but lingering finish. The flavors seem frozen in time on your palate, and there is a cool, refreshing aspect to this wine. At the moment, this does not have the weight or depth of some other years, but it is very young and may well put on some flesh in the cellar. Either way, it is going to be lovely. 93+ points.

1998 Sauternes (Raymond-Lafon)
Pointed and intense, this is also drenched in oak, and showing lots of it. There is also some botrytis wrapped around the oaky core. At the moment, it is hard to find much else, but some time in the cellar may improve this yet, bring its parts together, and prove that it actually has some fruit. 88+ points.

1927 Solera PX (Alvear)
 Hoo boy! Rich and creamy, this is thick and sweet, full in the palate, and well, as the saying goes, imagine motor oil with sugar added. This shows better balance than motor oil, though. It is constructed well. But it is remarkable for its depth and thickness, and unrelenting flavor. A fine Solera. 94 points.

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Germany (except dessert/sparkling)
1996 Riesling Spatlese "Niersteiner Orbel" (Strub)
Powerfully constructed, this wine's structure supports ripe fruit and a certain weighty feel. The acidity underneath becomes ever more significant and gives this life and liveliness, as well as grip and intensity on the finish. The sugar melds beautifully with the fruit and acidity to create a very pleasing whole. Delicious and beautifully constructed. 93 points.

1997 Rieslaner Auslese "Forster Stift" (Reichsgraf von Buhl)
From 375 ml. Drinking this made me think I was having a caramel latte from Starbucks. Speculation ensued as to botrytis, but botrytis or no botrytis, this was an odd flavor profile, in a rather thick, unctuous wine for its point in time. It was sweet and eccentric. I can't honestly say I liked its presentation much. Starbucks does caramel lattes better. Your mileage may differ. 85 points.

1999 Riesling Auslese ** Zeltinger Sonnenuhr  AP 2 606 319 004 00 (Selbach-Oster)
From 375ml. Rich and unctuous, this 2-star is round and sensual, velvety and deep.  What is missing, seemingly, is the acidity, totally submerged in a wine that is remarkably thick. This was only from 375ml, so there wasn't a lot to save, but with some air a bit later, I had the sense that this wine had a lot more acidity than seemed apparent, and that it could be a held a good long while. I suspect before you see or feel much acidity, this will have to be five to ten years older, the fruit thinner. The fruit would undoubtedly seem syrupy if there weren't more acidity than is perceptible. As it is, the wine seems just off dry and rich, not terribly sweet or syrupy at all. 92+ points.

1989 Riesling Auslese "Graacher Domprobst" (W. Schaefer)
A lovely wine... This Auslese is pointed and powerful on opening, showing mostly acid. With air and warmth, it begins to evolve. At first it seems a bit dried out, the fruit still reticent. It is certainly mature around the edges. But with more air and warmth, the gentle sugary notes come out (the wine seemed fully dry, almost austere at first), and the fruit gives evidence of life, indeed some liveliness. This is ready to roll in my view, and is drinking very well at the moment. The off-dry notes are just there--this is a fine table wine at this juncture. 92 points.

2005 Kabinett "Wehlener Sonnenuhr" (Kerpen)
This shows a lot of promise, and if it develops well, should be lovely. Its nose is full of minerals, stones and slate, and the dry-ish fruit is mostly pear-nuanced. It is intense and well focused, beautifully constructed. This could be a Kab that delivers a lot. No pricing available. 88-90 points.

2004 Riesling Spatlese "Bernkasteler Bratenhofchen" (Kerpen) QPR Winner
The nose is full of minerals, but the big impression here is the grip and focus of the wine, which ends in a rather penetrating fashion. This will turn rather dry with time, I think, and will show a little muscle. If the merchant buys aggressively, you can probably get this for around $16.50.  87-89 points.

2004 Riesling Spatlese "Graacher Domprobst" (Kerpen) QPR Winner
Fresh and floral, this is an utterly charming wine that is sensual yet sprightly. There's a touch of lemon on the end, but the acidity is well integrated, and the components seem very well balanced. This is a wine that will be a pleasure to drink whenever you come upon it. It is just charming and elegant, a wine that sneaks up on you. Same pricing as the Bernkasteler, above. 90-92 points.

2004 Riesling Auslese "Wehlener Sonnenuhr"  (Kerpen)

This will seem like a drier styled Auslese, largely because of the acidity it carries so well. There is an impression of weight and depth in the mid-palate, but the focus here will be on its structure. It won't be an Auslese fruit bomb. It will be interesting to see this develop, as it could turn out to be a powerful, precise and penetrating wine.  89-91 points.

2004 Riesling Kabinett (Selbach-Oster) QPR Winner
This Estate Kabinett is quite interesting, powerful and distinctive. There is a big hit of petrol on the nose, and the wine has a certain smokey nuance, perhaps a touch bitter on the finish.  It is rather thick for Kabinett, and has a powerful acidic kick.   It is just off dry, or perceptions seem that way.  A fine deal since this can be had under $15.  The diesel notes do need to blow off, though. 86-88 points.

2004 Riesling Kabinett "Zeltinger Sonnenuhr" (Selbach-Oster) QPR Winner
Delicate and pure, laced with minerals and wet stone nuances, this sprightly wine seems like a classic Kab.  Beautiful and elegant. Although differently styled, this is only likely to be a $1 or so more than the Estate Kab Riesling.  88-90 points.

2004 Riesling Spatlese "Erdener Treppchen" (J.J. Christoffel)
Pure, and light, ethereal and delicious, this has lively acidity, hints of sugar around the edges, and a delicate feel. At times it seems a touch simple, but it is very elegant and gracious. 86-88 points.

2004 Riesling Spatlese "Urziger Wurzgarten" (J.J. Christoffel)
A bit dumb at the moment, this is laced with mineral notes, and very focused. Lurking underneath is the hint of power, and the suggestion that this will evolve into a rather gripping wine, with a persistent finish. Hopefully, it will develop nicely in the cellar. 88-90 points.

2004 Riesling Spatlese * "Urziger Wurzgarten" (J.J. Christoffel)
Rich and powerful, this shows off mineral nuances, and lots of well integrated sugar. This one-star Spatlese is beautifully balanced, and very ripe, and a bit sweeter than expected. It is very flavorful. 90-92 points.

2004 Riesling Auslese * "Urziger Wurzgarten" (J.J. Christoffel)
This one-star Auslese actually seems lighter than the one-star Spat. Although the finish seems more sugary, in the mid-palate it seems more austere than the Spatlese. Go figure. In truth, I often wonder at the distinction between Christoffel Spats and Auslesen. Sometimes, there seems to be little distinction. In this instance, I liked the Spatlese * more, actually, although this may be hiding a layer or two. 90-92 points.

2005 Riesling QbA "Dragonstone" (Leitz)  QPR Winner
Typically one of the great deals in German Riesling, indeed in all of wine, the Dragonstone is technically billed as a mere QbA, but it invariably performs more like a Spatlese. In 2005, this is fabulous, and technically qualifies legally as Auslese. The nose is pungent and laced with minerals. The wine is rich, delicious and succulent. The QPR level is so good it is almost embarrassing.  This should run around $13.50 a bottle, which seems a touch high for Dragonstone, but is sure dirt cheap for Auslesen. NOTE: In June, 2006, I saw this, with a case discount, for under $11. Yet another store was selling it for $14. So, shop around. When the QbA is this good, you wonder if it takes away sales from their other wines. P.s. It is screwcapped this year! 90-92 points.

2004 Riesling Spatlese "Rudesheimer Magdalenekreuz" (Leitz) QPR Winner
Rich, big and unctuous, this is gloriously sweet, and tastes so good that you almost begin drooling. Leitz is an estate that is on a roll, and this is another big winner. There is structure, too, but at the moment this seems to be an unusually hedonistic Spatlese. A mere $16 or so, another super deal from this winery. 91-93 points. 

2004 Riesling Spatlese "Berg Roseneck" (Leitz) QPR Winner
Heavy petrol notes dominate up front, and then this dissolves into another relatively rich Spatlese. If not quite as unctuous as the Magdalenekreuz, it has plenty of richness to spare. This should wind up being beautifully balanced, once the youthful fruity notes calm down and the parts of the wine integrate. 90-92 points.

2003 Scheurebe Spatlese "Haardter Mandelring" (Muller-Catoir)
I tend to dislike this varietal because of its grassy notes, reminiscent of cold climate Sauvignon Blanc, but this is an unusual one that does not play to stereotypes. The nose is mostly clean and fresh. It starts rather sweet, and then melds into an impeccable whole, laced with pears and apples. It sports a lingering finish, and the pure, delicious flavors persist for every moment. Even I have to be impressed with this Scheurebe. 92-94 points.

2003 Riesling Auslese "Bockenauer Felseneck" (Schafer-Frohlich)
This opens very simply and ponderous, but it doesn't take much air to wake it up. Some desperately needed acidity, and a bit of liveliness, poke through. The wine is very much a creature of its vintage, solid, packed, and still a bit weightier than its structure would seem to permit. The sweetness is moderate.  On its own, this Nahe entrant is a pretty well made wine, but tasted next to its 2004 sibling, it was outclassed. 88 points.

2004 Riesling Auslese "Bockenauer Felseneck" (Schafer-Frohlich)
The exact same wine, next vintage, as the preceding entry, this shows the difference in vintages and why 2004 should provide a typical German Riesling lover more of what they want.  Where the 2003 is mostly flat and seems simple, although deep and concentrated, this is zesty and the acidity provides a lively aspect to it that is charming and blends perfectly with the sweet finish, as the sugar is more perceptible here, especially on the finish. This Auslese has a lot of elegance and charm, and the sweet finish is delectable.  91 points.

2000 Riesling Kabinett "Berncasteler Doctor" (Dr. Thanisch)
This Kabinett from Bernkasteler (as the others in the area spell it) is a pretty nice performance in the vintage, showing power and acid, but underneath the showy start, there isn't much. It finishes short, and the fruit can be a bit hard to find. A good deal, though, at the time, discovered on closeout, and pretty nice in context, some six years later. 84 points.

1990 Riesling Auslese "Niederhauser Hermannshohle" (Donnhoff)
The acidity is gripping, and this lively, intense wine seems young and immature at first. As it warms up, there are hints of maturity to the fruit, but just a little. The wine never loses its intensity, and it preens, showing off its power at every turn. There were moments when it was awe inspiring to contemplate, and others when I wished for a little more charm. This wine has a long way to go, and should improve more in the cellar. 94+ points.  

1992 Riesling Kabinett "Wehlener Sonnenuhr" (J.J. Prum)
Lemon and lime notes dominate on this, as the acidity is still powerful and in control of the wine.  Underneath, the fruit is a bit hard to find at first. As it warms up, though, it doesn't die, and seems increasingly friendly.  The finish fades a bit faster than would have been expected given the acidic power, and the fruit is clearly thinning. This is a pretty nice performance in many respects for a fourteen year old Kabinett, but I think you'd be wise to drink up. 86 points.

2001 Riesling "Rudesheimer Drachenstein" QbA (Josef Leitz) QPR Winner
This wine is, of course, known to all these days as "Dragonstone," a rare moment of marketing genius for German wine. Marketing apart, this is one of the super wine deals in the world most every year. In 2001, it was exceptional, too. Although billed as a QbA, it tastes and seems much like a nice Spatlese in this vintage. Here is a wine that was around $11, and easily hangs with things far pricier and more prestigious. Initially, in fact, this QbA was tight and closed, even at age five, for gosh sakes. When it finally warmed up and aired out, it showed beautiful off dry notes mingling with the acid. It is harmonious now--at least after some air!--but still fresh and lively. This wine went through a dumb period, but it is awake again, as long as it gets some warmth and air. Don't drink it too cold. It actually drank better the next day, after being refrigerated overnight. 90 points.

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Italy (except dessert/sparkling)

2001 Cabernet Franc/Merlot Rosso IGT "Phigaia--After the Red; Nervesa della Battaglia" (Serafini & Vidotto) QPR Winner
Fruity and flavorful, this has pleasing, ripe cherry nuanced fruit flavor that is rather on the exuberant side at first. With some air, it develops a somewhat smokey note. It has brightness on the finish and seems rather refreshing. With more air,  the wine stops developing and becomes a bit muted. It has little depth. I could find no evidence of this vintage in the marketplace, but considering that the '98 sold for $13.50, it is likely similarly priced. In that context, this is a rather pleasing wine and excellent value. 88 points.

2000 Chianti Classico Riserva (Querceto)
Grapey and tasty, this is very enjoyable initially.  However, it fades quickly, losing depth in the mid-palate. The finish is modest. There is a certain, attractive charm here, but the wine seems less and less distinguished as it goes along. 85 points.

1999 Montiano (Falesco)
Focused, tasty and sweet, this has some verve, some brightness, and liveliness. The fruit in the middle open expansively and it seems like right bank Bordeaux that is at once a bit simple, and ready to drink. Pleasing and friendly, this seemed a little overly modest in demeanor, but nicely balanced. 89 points.

1999 Giusto di Notri (Tua Rita)
Nicely balanced, with sweet fruit, and supple tannins, this has a beautiful, sunny demeanor.  Its elegance is not belied by its fruit forward nature, though, and the fruit is simply delectable. The texture is crushed velvet as it airs out, and it puts on weight and seems lusher. There is a bit of an oaky overlay, and a touch of licorice, but the parts integrate here well. Very nice. 93 points.

2000 Il Futoro (Il Colombaio di Cencio)
This Super Tuscan has a powerful nose, which leads you to a mid-palate chock full of flavor. But this is not a fruit bomb. It is focused, and youthful, vibrant and interesting.  It evolved nicely in the glass, the fruit opening and becoming ever more flavorful. 91 points.

2000 Brunello di Montalcino (Siro Pacenti)
Filled with sweet fruit in the fine mid-palate, this avoids imbalance with nice surrounding acidity and tannins. It is beautifully structured, but certainly "fruit forward" and "new wave" are phrases that come to mind. If this ages reasonably well, it can be a big winner. It simply tastes great.92-94 points.

2001 Brunello di Montalcino (Siro Pacenti)
Remarkably pure, fresh and ripe, this is another delicious Brunello from Pacenti. It is hard to say whether I like this better or the 2000, but I think I give a slight edge to this bottling. This is perhaps a touch brighter, and at least judging from how it shows at the moment, the tannins are perhaps a touch riper.  There is a big hit of acidity in the back, but the main point here, as with the 2000, is that the fruit is flat out delicious. Either of these would be most welcome in my cellar. This will likely be around $60-ish a bottle. 92-94 points. 

2003 Rosso di Montalcino (Scopetone) 
This has a big, fruity nose, but it is amazingly powerful for a Rosso. It is a little heady, too. The cherry-laced fruit is tasty, and there is a lingering finish that you don't quite expect in a Rosso. This is a lot of Rosso! Will it evolve well? If so, you may find that you don't need a Brunello. Around $23 or so  a bottle. 89-90 points.

2000 Brunello di Montalcino (Scopetone)
Powerful, with tingly tannins, this has an elegantly defined mid-palate. The fruit is a bit subdued on this wine at the moment, but it is surrounded by a velvety mid-palate that has a seductive texture. This should evolve gracefully, and will open up more in a few years. 89-91 points.

2001 Brunello di Montalcino (Scopetone)
I liked the texture better on the '00, above, but the structure a bit better here. The tannins are refined until the finish, where pure power is demonstrated. I like the mid-palate here, showing reasonable depth to go with the structure. A very nice Brunello that needs a few years to settle down. 89-91 points.

2004 Rosso di Montalcino (Uccelliera) QPR Winner
Bright and fruity, this shows fine cherry fruit, but tremendous power for a Rosso.  The tannins on the end are even a touch astringent, guaranteeing that this needs some cellar time. There is plenty of fruit here to be supported, though, and this is a Rosso that seems to have it all--power, fruit, structure.  It can likely be had for under $20 a bottle, a very good deal. This winery may fly under the radar screen a bit, but I think they are on a roll. 90-91 points.

2003 "Rapace" IGT  (Uccelliera) QPR Winner
This is a blend of Sangiovese (60%), Merlot (30%) and the rest Cabernet Sauvignon.  It is sweet and tasty, with the Cabernet notes seeming somehow to dominate the wine. There are substantial tannins on the finish, excellent depth and balance, and persistent flavor. There's a lot of wine here, beautifully constructed. A deal at $32 a bottle or so.  90-92 points. 

2001 Brunello di Montalcino (Uccelliera) QPR Winner
Full bodied and mouth coating, this is another beauty of a Brunello from Uccelliera. The packed mid-palate is surrounded by some acidity and considerable tannins. This should age and evolve beautifully. While not unapproachable now, I'd sure hold it another few years to let its parts integrate better. A deal at around $50 a bottle. 92-94 points.

1999 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (Uccelliera)
Oddly enough, I liked the '99 regular of this wine better, and for that matter I liked the '01 regular bottling better than this, too. That could be just because this is tighter, and harder, and needs a lot more time, but I wonder if this will ever be as seductive as the regular bottling? It is certainly full bodied, showing some hints of development. But it shows more structure, tannins and acidity, than it does fruit flavor. I think this will evolve beautifully, but at the moment it is bit tight and a well behind the regular bottlings in charm and grace. That answer may change dramatically in a decade.  But considering that this runs over $80 a bottle, and the regular bottling is more like $50, I'm wondering what the upside is here, unless this really develops exceptionally well in the long term. I wouldn't bet against it, as all the parts are here, but for the moment I'd have to say only 92-94 points.

2000 Brunello di Montalcino (Le Potazzine)
Forward and friendly, this features sweet fruit and lots of charm. There are some tannins on the end, but the easygoing demeanor of the wine is not much interrupted by them. This is graceful and pleasing, although it struck me as a touch simple. 88-90 points.

2001 Brunello di Montalcino (Le Potazzine)
Richer and fuller than the 2000, this shows more power and lots of intensity, as well as excellent depth, and fine purity of fruit. I think this is a winner, and I loved the way the wine gripped the palate.  91-93 points.

2004 Rosso di Montalcino (Le Macioche) QPR Winner
A typical Rosso, with forward fruit, a supple style, and loads of delicious cherry-nuanced flavors.  This is on the easygoing side, unlike some Rossos, which make you think they are Brunellos in disguise, but this is superbly done in its style and for early drinking is a winner. This will run around $23 a bottle and would merit a higher score if it were vin de garde, i.e., the score doesn't tell you how much fun it is to drink now.  For early drinking, you'll love it. 87-89 points.

2001 Brunello di Montalcino (Le Macioche)
This shows beautiful balance, with a gripping finish featuring considerable tannins on the end. The texture is silky, and the fruit is flavorful. The mid-palate is adequately packed. On the whole, this is a beautifully presented, well structured wine that is a nice cellar candidate. 90-92 points.

2001 Brunello di Montalcino (Pertimali)
Bright and powerful, this is very tight and rather hard to evaluate at the moment. The tannins give this a certain dusty feel, but knowing this producer, this should evolve beautifully. Stay tuned--and throw it in the cellar. 90-92 points.

2003 Ateo (Ciacci Piccolomini)  QPR Winner
One of my favorite values in Italian wine, this should be available for around $20-ish. The Ateo is also one of the cheapest Super Tuscans you can find. This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with partial aging in barrique. It is what it usually is--flavorful and ripe, with a sensual, soft texture, and supple tannins that give it a lively, tingling sensation.  As the fruit opens on it, it should be its usual, sweet, charming self in this vintage. 89-91 points.

2000 Brunello di Montalcino (Ciacci Piccolomini)  QPR Winner
Remarkably flavorful, this features very ripe fruit, and a rather elegant structure. The wine is bright, and more tannic than you think at first, but the persistent flavors of the fruit mask other components at the moment, making this just taste damn good. This is being re-released at a new, lower price and should come in under $40 a bottle. 90-92 points.

2001 Brunello di Montalcino (Ciacci Piccolomini)
This has a beautiful, pungent nose, but afterwards it is hard to find the fruit given the wave of tannins. It is very intense, beautifully structured and built for the longer haul. The tannins are not overbearing; rather, they tend to sneak up on you. But the demeanor of this wine, unlike the 2000, is focused more on structure, and I suspect this will age somewhat better. It is a nice one-two punch, however you look at it. 91-93 points.

 

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Loire (except dessert/sparkling)

1998 Chinon "Clos de la Dioterie" (Joguet)
This is a fine time to drink this puppy. It has evolved well and is in prime time. It is full in the mouth for a Chinon, earthy, with persistent flavors leading to an excellent, lingering finish. It is impeccably balanced, and seems open and inviting. The Bordeaux for Bordeaux lovers who can't afford the real thing?  92 points.

1996  Chinon "Coteau de Noiré" (Alliet) QPR Winner
When I first had this about six years back, it seemed impressive and likely to develop well. For the most part it has, although my original score of 88-90 points was well merited for its restraint. This opens with a heady nose now, and a touch of space. It has broad, expansive flavors, signifying a wine that is fully open and drinking beautifully. It is simply delicious. Its youthful tannins are mostly moderated and the wine seems quite lovely. It has a beautiful finish, too, with acidity ramming home the flavors to your palate. As it continued to air out, though, it developed more than a bit of that herbal, green pepper nuance, and I suddenly wasn't liking it quite as much. If my enthusiasm waned, there was still a lot here to like. 90 points.

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Rhone/South/SW France (except dessert/sparkling)
2000 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Cuvée da Capo (Pegau)
The first taste of this from magnum, despite several hours of double decanting, was very deceptive.  In the middle, was this gloriously sweet core of fruit that seemed like essence of Chateauneuf, and it was simply magnificent. But the wine was compact, a bit tight, lighter than I expected. Very good, but not earthshattering. Then, this just exploded in the glass. Every moment it sat, it blossomed. The persistence of flavor on the finish was remarkable. For all of the sweetness of the fruit, this couldn't be anything but Chateauneuf, projecting some game, some strawberries, some herbs, classic aromatics.  Typicity, yes. Despite what some may tell you. As it got more air, it the power came out, too--this isn't just about fruit. There is a tannic backbone to support the dense mid-palate, and the tannins are even a touch astringent. This is just a remarkable wine, and it is not even close to being ready. It has years to go before it peaks, I'm thinking around 2015. (This was from magnum...)  That doesn't mean you won't appreciate it today with some decanting, but this will have a stage when it is completely open and expansive and that will be a remarkable thing to see. Unfortunately, it is made in such small quantities that virtually no one will experience that moment. 100 points.
 

1998 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Cuvée des Cadettes (La Nerthe)
After tasting this about three years ago, I could only say that it seemed terrific, but was so hard and tight that it was too impenetrable to score. This was from magnum, but double decanted for several hours.  It showed a lot better, and was simply beautiful. It is still tightly wound and very focused, but the flavors are easier to find now, and the tannins more supple. It is full bodied and mouth filling, with a pointed burst of sweet fruit in the middle. It has remarkable depth, and the weight of the wine just seems to coat your mouth.   This is not close to being at peak, and will improve remarkably, still, in the cellar. It may round into form more around 2010-2015. 95 points.

2003 Chateauneuf du Pape (Charvin)
Ripe and rich, this has beautifully sweet fruit in the middle, but the wine sings "Rhone Grenache" all the way through its presentation. With air, the tightly wound, very young, grapey wine begins to gain its footing and round into some form, but of course, this is hardly at peak even if amazingly tasty. As good as the fruit tastes now,  the wine should acquire more harmony and become more open with a few years in the cellar.  I loved the nose, herbs, strawberries, touches of game. 93 points.

2004 Syrah "Les Candives" (Cuilleron) QPR Winner 

This inexpensive wine, around $20, is a nice little syrah for every day drinking purposes. It has fresh fruit, and flavor, which you expect in a modestly priced wine. But what is interesting about this is that it also has some character, a certain earthy note that gives it a hint of complexity. It is beautifully balanced and nicely focused. Very tasty. Drinking well now. 89 points.

1990 Hermitage "Monier de la Sizeranne" (Chapoutier)

This seems fully mature at this juncture. Although the fruit has thinned a bit too much, it is expressive and wide open, bright and friendly, with beautiful aromatics, game, strawberries and earth. It is classic syrah in many respects, although the lack of depth detracts from the overall impression. Drink up as this is fully mature. 88 points.

1995 Hermitage "Monier de la Sizeranne" (Chapoutier)

Full bodied in the mouth, this has intensity and verve to go with fine depth of fruit. It is bright around the edges, and supple tannins give it a lively feel. The fruit is fresh here, and this is a prime time wine, not showing much in the way of tertiary notes, if at all. It is very lush, and the texture is pure velvet. Very nice. 90 points.

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Spain (except dessert/sparkling)
2003 Jumilla (Juan Gil) QPR Winner 

Prices vary widely on this, but it should be always under $15, and frequently more like $12. It has remarkable structure for a QPR wine, with bursts of acidity and a fair share of tannin. There is pretty good depth of fruit for its price range, and this is actually something that needs either cellaring or decanting. Pop and pour, and you'll be not as happy. A fine value. I'm told this is all Monastrell (Mourvedre). 90 points.

1998 Castilla y Léon "Vendimia Seleccionada" (Mauro)
Delicious, youthful and grapey, with very bright overtones, this is refreshing, though not particularly deep. It is well structured, however, focused and intense, with with persistent and irresistible flavors. Very tasty. 91  points. 

1995 Ribera del Duero "Alenza" (Conado de Haza)
This is deep and powerful, filling the mouth and coating the palate. As it aired out, though, I was not completely pleased with its flavor profile. First, there were rhubarb notes. That I could handle, and even appreciate. But then it became herbal, laced with green, bell pepper notes, and making me think idle dreams of Cabernet Franc, and not in a good way. As the wine evolved, it lost its simple, weight air, however, and also showed some underlying acidity and ripe tannins. If you like the flavor profile, this is a sensational wine. If you do not, it is still very good, but not for you. 94 points.

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