TM


Tasting Notes
May/June, 2008

Tasting Notes Contents Page

QPR Winner   I give this award to wines that demonstrate an excellent Quality to Price Ratio. They are sometimes more expensive than the wines featured in my Best Buys section (which is cut off at $20), so while every Best Buy is also a QPR Winner,  not every QPR winner is an official Best Buy.  QPR winners are simply wines that are great values for a relatively  reasonable price. 

Calif/USA  Dessert/Sparkling   Germany  Spain

California/USA (except dessert/sparkling)
2000 Pinot Noir "Rincon" (Talley)
Another three years in the cellar since my last taste have not necessarily been kind to this wine. It still shows some good things, some nice Pinot flavors, but it has thinned considerably in the mid-palate and seems simpler and a bit inoffensive. It is pleasant enough and a nice drink, but it is time to drink up. 87 points.

1997 Zinfandel "Hayne" (Turley)
There was a time when I found this wine forbidding, in its youth; and a time when I thought it had come around, mid term. Now, it seems in a rather bad place. It does have some bright and tasty fruit, surrounded by kirsch notes. But as it airs out, it seems to crack up, becoming harsh and alcoholic, and hard to take. Let's say, one or two sips were plenty. I'm not sure where the wine I once admired and thought had such promise went. Perhaps it was simply best drunk by age 6 or 7 or so. It certainly is not showing well now, and is downright unpleasant at times in its burly unwieldiness. There is a lot going on here--but not all of it is good. 83 points.

1996 Zinfandel "Tofanelli" (Turley)
This has some good points, but is hardly stunning at this juncture. It has nice red fruit, with sharp raspberry notes that turn to brambles and briars with air. It is a little laid back on opening, but pleasant and lively. With some air, the fruit becomes more flavorful, but the wine also becomes more acidic and some alcohol becomes noticeable. I would drink this for safety on the early side now. 89 points.

2004 Zinfandel "Highwire" (Hartford)
This Zin seems a bit hot, austere and rather disjointed. Air did it little good, other than bringing out some bretty notes. The brett might actually have been welcome, as it gave the wine some distinctiveness it otherwise lacked. 83 points.

2002 Zinfandel "Korte Ranch" (Elyse)
This has nice depth for a Zin of its age, and a nice mouthfeel. It becomes a bit more intense with air. Its downfall, depending on your viewpoint, is its flamboyance. It is loaded with kirsch notes and a bit on the ultra ripe and sweet side. I didn't think it was offensive in its flamboyance, especially in the context of a Zin, but it may be an acquired taste for some. Its texture and fruit were actually quite nice. 89 points.

2004 Zinfandel "Kilt Lifter" (Crauford)
This was an auction bottling, one of 60 bottles, Lot 162. It has lovely balance and some intensity and the outset and on the finish. I liked the mouthfeel and the fruit, but it fell off the table with air. It always had a certain hollow aspect to it, and it became shorter on the finish as well, going nowhere in particular. Considering that it is relatively young and prized, it was a bit disappointing. In the grander scheme of things, it was a pleasant enough wine. 86 points.

1997 "Les Pavots" (Peter Michael)
I wondered if this wine would come into balance from some earlier showings, and it sure has. It is delicious and refined, the tannins beautifully integrated into the elegant mid-palate. Its balance is impeccable now, and it shows bright, sweet fruit, while remaining subtle and graceful at times. When I have wines like this--it really needed a decade to show well--I can't help but think of all those folks who seem to believe that Cal Cabs are meant for drinking on or about release. This should drink just fine for another decade. 94 points.

1997 Cabernet Sauvignon "Private Reserve" (Beringer)
Rich, delicious, sweet and opulent, tinged with strawberry nuances, this is a very ripe Beringer that is nonetheless saved by some nice acidity on the finish. With time, as it airs out, it acquires some modicum of elegance and more typicity as well, and the not-too-thick mid-palate gives it a graceful demeanor. This is very nice, and drinking well. 93 points.

1999 Syrah "Garys' Vineyard" (Testarossa)
This has aged quite nicely, a very nice performance from a wine still in prime time. It shows some earthy notes around the edges now, a welcome nuance from Syrah. Yet, the wine is also sweet and fragrant, with juicy fruit. Its elegant mid-palate renders it rather graceful, and the earth mingles with the very sweet fruit to give it some character. This is not particularly profound, but it has held very well, is lively, bright and succulent, and deserves some plaudits. 90 points.

2005 Syrah "Castelli-Knight" Ranch (Pax)
When Pax debuted, I thought many of their wines were clumsy and hard to take. Many now show better balance and elegance. This is a good example. It is hardly a shy wine, but it feels lovely rather than striking me as a blockbuster. Its fruit is sweet on the finish, but the mid-palate is elegantly crafted, and the balance impeccable. The tannins are refined and are well integrated but should provide enough support so that this ages gracefully for a decade. It does soften rather quickly, though, and should be drinkable young. 93 points.

1998 Syrah "Mendocino" (Behrens & Hitchcock)
Pleasant, but seeming rather foursquare and basic, this goes nowhere with air, and if anything deteriorates a bit at this point, finishing rather harsh. It has its moments, but is of little distinction. 86 points.

1997 Merlot (Duckhorn)
Duckhorn's "basic" Merlot is still pretty good and hardly cheap ($40, purchased in 2000). It has held very well. It opens rather austere, showing tobacco and many tertiary nuances. It is generally harmonious, and a mature Bordeaux ringer. About twenty minutes of air does this a lot of good. It remains earthy and it shows like it needs to be drunk still, but some gentle tannins do emerge that give it a little intensity, and the fruit becomes more attractive. Eventually, it is seamless and pleasing, but don't hold it too much longer. 88 points.

2001 Zinfandel "Buchignani Ranch" (Ridge Vineyards)
It opens with a big hit of oak, but also with a big blast of fruit. There are times when all of its components, fruit, oak and alcohol, seem out of balance, but some air does this good, as it acquires some harmony, and the sweet fruit becomes the dominant impression. Nice, not distinguished. 87 points.

2001 Zinfandel (Paradigm)
Made by Heidi Barrett, this is bright on the finish and rather elegant for modern day Zin. I liked the lush texture and the elegant mid-palate, and there was clearly some effort here to keep this in good balance. There is not much intensity at this point in its life, nor much finish, and it seems a bit basic and foursquare, if rather charming and pleasant. 87 points.

1990 Zinfandel "Cook" (Ravenswood)
Served blind, I was having trouble figuring out what this was. Bordeaux? It was earthy and mature, but there was a note on it that made me sure it was not Bordeaux. Madiran? Cahors? It is said, and I often agree, that aged Zin develops some Bordeaux-like characteristics, and this was a case in point. It is quite nice, although well into tertiary nuances, showing forest floor and more earth than fruit. That said, it also was very bright, and the fruit actually seemed to become more appealing with some air, and a little sweeter. It eventually became a bit austere. 87 points.

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Dessert/Sparkling (except dessert/sparkling)
2005 Gewurztraminer Late Harvest (Londer)
This version of Londer's fine Late Harvest Gewurz is delightful, but restrained, a bit off dry and fruity, but not particularly sweet. While not quite as sensational as the "one-off" 2002, which was really an ice wine, it is simply lovely, floral, aromatic and perfectly balanced, with a nice mouth coating finish. Delicious and lively, this is a late harvest Gewurz in a restrained manner that succeeds very well. 89 points.

2001 Vidal Ice Wine (Saw Mill)
I really liked how this opened up, sweet but with increasing amounts of acidity, along with a certain foxy note on the finish. More air and warmth did not do this a lot of good, though, as the acidity seemed less in control and the wine less in balance. Still, considering that this entered my state for $13 per half, it is was a pretty nice bargain in a dessert wine. 89 points.

1994 Port (Dow)
With a very elegant mid-palate, this Port, with 3 hours of decanting and another couple of hours of the double-decanted bottle being open, shows good fruit flavor, but is not fully evolved. It still needs at least another five years to come into balance, although it is getting there. When it does, it should show beautiful fruit flavor, classic Port aromatics. Note that this was served from a 375ml.  94 points.

1963 Port "Nacional" (Quinta do Noval)
The first whiff was a little old and a little odd--but it must have been some passing aroma from something else, because there was nothing odd about this at all, other than it being the best Port I've ever had. It wasn't old either. In fact, it seemed so youthful, fresh and young, that, served blind, it was impossible to believe it was actually this old. I was guessing '80s. My next guess was, "I don't know what it is, but I've never had anything better." It next performed an amazing feat--seeming rich and opulent, while graceful and elegant. I've simply never tasted a Port this impeccably balanced, this fresh at its age, and this good. It seemed so rich and unctuous, which still be utterly graceful, charming and light on its feet. The purity of fruit is remarkable, as is the finish. It is truly amazing and deserves every plaudit it has gotten. 100 points.

1952 Port Garrafeira (Niepoort)
This fine Port, not labeled Garrafeira, but being one nonetheless I was told by Dirk Niepoort, is super.  It was bottled in 1974. It is bright and piercing, with an unctuous layer of fruit on the finish, but a crisp and penetrating demeanor,  pointed and focused. It lingered, and made your mouth water for more. 94 points.

1964 Port Colheita (Quinta do Noval)
If the Nacional, above, is the greatest vintage Port I've had, this tawny is probably in the running for the best tawny. Like the Nacional, it is youthful, fresh and lively, hardly to be believed at its age. Rich, oozing flavor, and with enticing aromas that you can smell several feet away, this is remarkably deep, with a finish that seemed unwilling to cease and desist. It is simply delicious, and a wine that has to be on your desert island list. 100 points.

1929 Solera (Herdade do Mouchão)
This is a private stock this famous winery makes largely for itself. Its average age is 40-50 years. It is, amazingly, but in keeping with this estate's vision, all Alicante Bouschet. (Is there anyone who has ever made better use of Alicante than this winery, and its related wineries?) It is remarkable, rich and sweet, but with some complexity, some tertiary aromas, and some liveliness. Think somewhere between PX and Moscatel sherry, but with its own unique character. You won't be able to get any, so I feel guilty for taunting you. 96 points.

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Germany (except dessert/sparkling)
1998 Riesling Spatlese "Abtsberg" (Von Schubert - M. Grunhaus)
This opens a bit restrained and reticent, with lemon-lime notes on the finish. But there is a pungent, powerful nose, giving a hint of what is to come. The wine expands and evolves, showing youthful energy. It is lively and crisp, and the acid provides it intensity and verve. Focused and sharp, I'm not sure this is really ready to drink, but it should be an exceptional Spatlese in a few years.  92 points.

2006 Riesling Spatlese "Erdener Treppchen" (J.J. Christoffel)
This vineyard usually produces lighter, more delicate wines than Christoffel's Urz Wurz efforts, but at its current age and in this vintage, this wine seems lush and rich, showing a sugary finish and sensual texture. As it airs out, the mid-palate thins a bit, but the fruity demeanor mingling with the sugar make this a guilty pleasure in infanticide. Luscious and lingering, it is a wine that will be a pleasure to drink young before it closes down. 90 points.

1997 Rieslaner Auslese Mußbacher Eselshaut (Muller-Catoir)
This lovely Rieslaner is drinking beautifully at the moment. It opens lush, sweet but not cloying, with remarkable depth of fruit that projects a feeling of decadent richness. Despite that, and with some air, the wine shows fine balance, and the acidity cuts through its thickness. I could say this is a great time to drink this--the wine is wide open and showing exceptionally well. Yet, it is also very youthful, without nary a hint of aging wine. Considering that it is 11 years old, that is quite something. It has easily another decade to go--more likely, two. 93 points.

2004 Riesling Spatlese "Scharzhofberger" (Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt)
Opening rich and lush, with acid on the end, this seems on the sweeter end of the spectrum, and the less structured end. The particularly good news, however, is that the wine shows more acid and better integration of components with air, the fruit mingling beautifully with the acidity, which emerges to provide some verve and support. The wine becomes relatively more austere--a VERY relative term for this wine. This still tastes very young and has not really begun to close down, but in a decade it is certainly going to seem to be a very different wine. 91 points.

1990 Riesling Spatlese "Urziger Wurzgarten" (J.J. Christoffel)
This certainly seems mature. The fruit has that burnished feel, and there a touches of oxidation around the edges. Yet, it is also vibrant and powerful at times, showing off that lovely finish you get when a wine with just enough acidity comes into balance with a wine that has just enough sugar. It manages to expand in the glass, and shows surprising depth and a certain roundness in the mid-palate, too. The more I sat with this, the more I liked it. 93 points.

2003 Riesling Auslese *** "Urziger Wurzgarten" (J.J. Christoffel)
Plump, primary, sweet and lush, this three star is a creature of its vintage, youthful and hardly seeming to have aged a day. Yet, I was pleased that it acquired some balance and harmony with air, giving a good preview of what may come with a decade or so in the cellar. There's a lot here to like, the only thing missing at the moment being some intensity.  93 points.

2001 Riesling Spatlese "Oestricher Lenchen" (Spreitzer)
I was afraid this beauty would be shut down hard, as so many '01s are, but it actually seems young and open. I wouldn't be surprised to see it close down yet, because there is a lot of STUFF lurking underneath the friendly demeanor of this wine. And it's pretty friendly at the moment. It is lively enough, with a touch of lemon on the finish, but the sugar and the fruit integrate beautifully to make this exceptionally appealing in an off-dry, but not too sugary, style. It has a nice finish, and expands in the glass with air and warmth, too. I'm not sure it has as much upside as I once thought, but it is awfully nice. 92 points.

1995 Riesling Auslese ** "Zeltinger Sonnenuhr" (Selbach-Oster)
Lovely, fresh, youthful and sunny, this wine is off dry but not particularly unctuous for its pradikat--but very pleasing. The purity of fruit and precision are impressive, and the finish is flavorful and lingering. From 375ml. 92 points.

2002 Riesling Kabinett "Herrenberg" (M. Grunhaus)
This charming Kabinett seems round and expansive, but there is that tell-tale hit of lemon-lime lingering on the finish, indicating some crispness to come. There is not much intensity apparent, but there is that zing. It is succulent and delicious, fruity not sweet, and it comes into very nice balance with some air. 88 points.

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Spain (except dessert/sparkling)
2001 Tinto (Finca Sandoval)
I wasn't sure how this wine was going to come around when I had it near release, but it has developed quite nicely. The tannins have integrated beautifully, although there is still intensity to this wine. It seems elegant and beautifully balanced. The fruit has opened and developed, showing typical Syrah bacon fat notes, along with some nice juicy sweetness. It has good acidity that gives it a certain succulence on the finish. It will thin in the mid-palate with time,  but it should hold until about 2012 or so fairly gracefully.  90 points.

2000 Clos Martinet (Mas Martinet)
This wine is a study in contrasts, opening a little disjointed, but wide open in terms of fruit flavor. It is intense and powerful, and a bit sharp at times. But the fruit is singing and the acidity delivers a succulent and flavorful finish. The mid-palate is quite elegant. This shows notes of maturity (fruit), while still needing some cellaring (structure). It may be that the fruit does not come into perfect balance with the structure, but it should have several years of good drinking left. 92 points.

2001 Clos Martinet (Mas Martinet)
Lush, sensually textured and rather sexy, this is focused and full bodied, with a penetrating finish. It opens tight, but by the end of the evening it evolves into a harmonious, almost seamless wine that is a pleasure to drink. While the 2000 seems a bit sharp edged at times, the parts here seem to complement one another beautifully. This is drinking fine now, but still youthful and not finished evolving. 94 points.

2005 Astrales (Bodegas Los Astrales)
This has a certain dapper quality to it. It smells right, looks right, tastes right, and then it sneaks up on you--it is far more appealing and charming that it first appeared. Elegant and graceful, this seems quite approachable, but air does this a lot of good as it fleshes out in the glass, and becomes more intense, showing a nice tannic backbone that wasn't apparent at first. It is quite tasty and lingers on the respectable finish, too. 93 points.

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